Saturday, July 25, 2009

Family visit!

Sue and Audrey arrive this afternoon in Berlin and the crazy capital city tour begins!
Sue having a Schnitzel for dinner...
Sue and Audrey partying it up in Berlin!
Hackische Höfe at night...pretty inner courtyards
Free coconut? Some guy gave us a free coconut. Strange, and delicious.
Amazing winner triathlete Audrey: "Biking makes happy"
Berliner Dom at night
Berliner Dom and the Spree
This one is for Derek: it's HUMBOLDT!!!

Friday, July 24, 2009

Germany for Beginners

Today we went to an exhibit called "Deutschland für Anfänger," Germany for Beginners. It was really well done, a very hands-on, very colorful, mixed media exhibit. Not sure who the intended audience is...as most of the information was in German with small bits translated for non-German speaking visitors... But it was great for graduate students who teach German 101 in the US. :)

Here are some highlights...

A for Arbeit, "work."



















"B" is for Brauchtum, "customs," like the Tannenbaum, Karneval...

















"C" is for Currywurst, a letter dedicated to all the different kinds of Wurst the Germans eat. Turns out they eat on average 2.6 kg of Bratwurst a year, 7.3 kg of Brühwurst.









"F" for Fußball, )note the cute little kids listening to some game!)














"G" for Gemütlichkeit, the kind of coziness in a German Biergarten, at home with family...








"H" for Humor, where they embraced the stereotype that Germans aren't funny... Although I thought this little thing of Kanzlerin Angela Merkel in a little red dish was pretty funny :)

And they also had jokes such as: "Q: What is the title of the shortest book in the world? A: One Thousand Years of German Humor."

















"K" for Kindergarten!




"L" for Lorelei, the poem by Heinrich Heine which is named after a spot of cliffs along the Rhine, where, as the myth goes, sailors crashed to their deaths because of the singing of a woman combing her hair.







"O" for Ordnung, order, cleanliness and punctuality for which the Germans are so famous.













"S" for Sitten, which are customs, like etiquette...

Some examples they had:

1) Reserving your lawn chair with just a towel (we would probably do this too, right?)
2) Standing in Line is a Waste of Time (so true! Germans are totally bad at standing in line, rush to the front no matter how long they've been there!)
3) Staring Allowed (also true)
4) Not Introducing Third Parties (I didn't know about this, never noticed it)
5) Don't order tap water (I hate this in Germany, very annoying to have to always pay for water)
6) Sharing Tables (in restaurants or especially outdoor cafés sometimes you share the table with strangers right next to you)
7) Du or Sie? (The two forms of "you" are hard for foreigners to get a grasp on)
8) Don't wait to be seated (go find your own table in restaurants, pick where you would like to sit and you'll be served)
9) Watch where you're going! (Or you will be run into or run over)



"U" is for Umwelt, environment. Cute little model of how the Germans separate their trash and how much waste a year that represents. They really do have all these colored bins for sorting their trash.


Spätzle!

I got a Spätzle press and successfully made my own Spätzle! This is a kind of egg noodle typical for Schwaben, in southwestern Germany. Served with chantarelle mushroom sauce...mmm...lecker!

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Café Culture

There is nothing like Europe in the summer when you can sit with a coffee outside and watch people walking by, or enjoy a meal in a "garden restaurant"...

Here are pictures from one cool café I went to with Marie, a friend visiting, in a garden courtyard. Really beautiful atmosphere


And below is the Bergmannstrasse in Kreuzberg, a really colorful beautiful area with lots of different kinds of cuisine and shops...

Berlin Randomness

Below: Mohrenstrasse U-Bahn Station. After the war they took the red marble out of Hitler's Reichskanzlei (the government building he had built for himself) and put it into the U-Bahn station. Below: Ad from Kentucky Fried Chicken in Germany, an example of the rampant Anglicisms in the German language, which are most commonly found in advertising, the business and technology sectors, and in youth slang. "Chicken" is not a German word, but here they have it used gramatically as if it were, in the compound words "Chickentag" (chicken day) and "Chickenteile" (chicken pieces).

Below, the trend of getting coffee "to go" like at Starbucks or whatever, has slowly been making its mark in Germany. This coffeeshop, however, doesn't quite understand that "Togo" is a country, and "to go" the correct designation for Kaffee zum mitnehmen.
This is a slide in a movie theater. Seriously. The theater was on the second or third floor, and one option to get back out is to take a slide...Here is Michael at the bottom.

They also had "Rutschregeln", rules for the slide. But still, the last one is to "run upstairs and do it again." I feel like in the US such a thing would not be possible due to our lawsuit culture... Correct me if I'm wrong. :)And another Berliner Randomness: After Michael Jackson's death the Germans were sadder than the Americans. Seriously. This is just one example of a totally random little shrine...On Alexanderplatz next to this clock that shows the time all around the world, they started putting pictures and notes and memorial candles.

Bakery culture


So I am taking a bread baking course at the local Volkshochschule, which is like a community education class. I had two sessions of four hours, led by a retired Bäckermeister, master baker. He worked in different bakeries, owned his own, and then decided to retire from the business because of competition amongst other reasons.

Sad. Because in Germany, there are many more traditional, family-owned bakeries which make their own dough and and have their own recipies and specialties. But increasingly, there are chain bakeries which get their dough from the factory and bake it on-site but don't make it themselves (like chain bakeries in the US such as Panera). So this is a trend which unfortunately is spreading...But Germany truly still does have a bread culture totally different from that in the US.

The Germans will put up their noses and scoff when the conversation turns to the white bread you can buy in the US. They call this "Toast Brot" and love to talk about how mushy it is, how you can push one end to the other and press it together flat. German bread is solid, fresh, usually denser and usually not 100% white.

In any bakery there are tons of different kinds, and usually you buy the whole loaf. You can ask them to slice it for you, if you prefer. They have a machine there in the bakery which slices it. But most people cut their own bread at home one slice at a time...and many households even have a small "Brotschneidemaschine" (bread cutting machine). The mere fact that this exists proves one huge difference between the US and Germany. While trying to fall asleep last night I was thinking about the expression "the best thing since sliced bread....."
So anyways, I did a baking course and learned a lot of helpful techniques and tips for making yeast doughs, sweet doughs and sourbread doughs. I definitely need a lot more practice, but it was super interesting and also a true social experience being in a course with 11 Germans who want to perfect their bread-baking techniques, and one master baker who looks at us curiously sometimes and smiles.... "No, don't ever put dishwashing liquid on your bread pans! They're clean! You're just going to bake with them again, just wipe them out! Dish soap is the worst thing for them!" Or his commentary about the baking industry, "Yeah, bakers used to get there at 3:00 or 4:00 am to start making the bread for the day, now some of them are even starting now [around 7:00 pm] to make your bread for tomorrow! That's what it's come to!"

Another thing that is typically German are Brötchen, which we can only translate as rolls but they aren't like any rolls you can buy in the US. Like the French have croissant for Sunday breakfast, Germans have Brötchen. There are lots of different kinds, white bread, whole wheat with sunflower seeds, or pumpkin seeds, or made from a milk dough with raisins... Like German bread, they always have a hard crust and a soft inside. If you touch the crust of a loaf of German bread it's always hard, and Brötchen, too. Crunchy outside and soft inside. Not like a loaf of bread you can get in the US which would be soft to the touch.

Here's what I made last night: A Kräuter-Quark bread (herb and quark), and also a loaf of rye with dried fruit. Last week I made a garlic bread and a sweeter dough for making breakfast rolls.

Next up: the same baker is doing a course on Torten und Kuchen (tortes and cakes). I am already signed up.

below: Kamps, a chain bakery in a shopping mall (but they still do have great Rosinenschnecken)

DEM DEUTSCHEN VOLKE

The Reichstag building...Seat of the German parliament and crazy-historic... Built in 1894, a good 23 years after Germany was united as a country...In 1916 they added the words "DEM DEUTSCHEN VOLKE" above the entrance, "to/for the German people"...a marker of democracy, in a country in which the Kaiser was slowly losing his power.

In 1933 a fire destroyed the Reichstag building, and Hitler blamed the Communists, which led to a witch-hunt and propaganda which turned a lot of the population against the extreme leftist parties. The building wasn't used during the Nazi era, and after the Berlin Wall went up nearby the ruin of a building had no use (Western German government was in Bonn). Only after 1989 was it again used to hold the reunited German Bundestag. This fancy shiny dome was built in 1992, designed by Sir Norman Foster. It has a ramp you can walk up to the top for great views of the city. It's also a very enviornmentally-friendly design, with mirrors which let in natural light into the room below where the congress meets.



East Side Gallery


The "East Side Gallery" is the longest remaining piece of the Berlin Wall (1.3 km), made up of 105 works of art from 118 artists from 21 countries.

Berlin Wall 101: There was actually a double wall on the East side...West Berliners could get right up next to the wall, so on that side it was usually covered with graffiti. And they even had platforms next to it so you could look over to the other side in certain locations. But on the east side, there was a second wall and between them was a "no man's land" filled with barbed wire, land mines, and sand...Guarded by dogs and watch towers. So the East Berliners couldn't get up next to the wall at all. It was smooth and white.

So in 1989...when the wall is opened up, the Eastern Side of the wall also started to get painted. In one location, a long stretch near the Ostbahnhof, a bunch of artists from all over the world got together in 1990 and painted a "gallery" of works along the wall.

In the years since then, weather, graffiti and vandalism took their toll, and you could barely even recognize the works. Now for the 20-yr anniversary, the original artists are coming back to Berlin to redo their pieces. Today this section of the wall is the longest remaining piece, and it is under "memorial protection" (Denkmalschutz) so it is supposed to be preserved in its original condition. So they are even redoing the cement and filling in holes to make sure the wall looked how it did in 1990! Kinda crazy...Anyways, here are some pictures of the renovation-in-progress:
Artists in action....
Some samples from the gallery:

Above: "So strong, and yet so vulnerable. the people (das Volk), man (der Mensch), the forest, the tree."
Above: This painting has become really famous, known as the "Bruderkuss," "brother kiss," which was a greeting in the former Eastern Block to show respect. In this mural (after a photograph) it is Erich Honecker (E Germany) und Leonid Breschnev (Soviet Union).